What exactly is Lamellar water?
There is a new hair product that is making waves; Lamellar water. Because it's a relatively new product, it's not as readily available as other products that have the same effects, such as masks or other treatments. But what exactly does it do for your hair? Lamellar water is a rinse out treatment that claims to add shine and moisture in just a few seconds. In this blog post I'll go over what lamellar water is, who would benefit the most from it, and review some options if you'd like to try it out for yourself.
Lamellar water, originally patented by L’oreal, is a lightweight, viscous, water-based rinse containing conditioning agents, cationic surfactants, and in some cases proteins and amino acids. If you aren't sure what a cationic surfactant is, I cover them extensively in my post on bond builders. To summarize; they bind to negative ions on damaged hair to reform salt bonds, which make up a third of the strength of your hair. According to PopSugar, the first lamellar water product was introduced by Kérastase in 2019 with their in-salon treatment K Water, which claimed to give “intense, glasslike shine” and improve the quality of hair.
The name lamellar water comes from the term ‘lamella’ meaning ‘thin layer’, as the product claims to use a thin layer of these ingredients combined with water to coat the hair for damage repair, protection and add shine. I like to compare this to the term lamination; coating something in a protective layer, which is a more familiar term.These words share the Latin root ‘lamina’ also meaning thin layer, leaf, or slice.
This product is best for those with fine, porous hair. The added hydration and shine during your washing step is a nice alternative to leave-ins or masks, in order to use styling products as well, without weighing the hair down. The main draw of using a product like this is how immediate the benefits are, and how lightweight the product is as it quickly binds to hair and you rinse it out right away. If you are someone who doesn't like to have too many steps in your hair routine or just simply doesn't have the time to use a mask or treatment, I think this is a great option for you.
To use a lamellar water, you will apply it to wet hair immediately after shampoo. I recommend applying it directly to your hair (as opposed to trying to lather it up in your hands first) since the product is very watery and you want to avoid wasting it. This product will not foam up like a shampoo will, but you want to work it into the hair and get a light lather before rinsing it out to allow it to properly coat the hair. It is optional to follow-up with a conditioner of your choice.
Many of these products also claim to repair damage, but if that is the main benefit you are looking for, I recommend a bond building product with more potential for repair.
Due to the nature of cationic surfactants, lamellar water has a lower pH which has many amazing benefits for hair including. The product is safe for all hair types to use including damaged hair, but If you are already using products with lower pH I dont think this product will do much for you. If the pH of the hair has been lowered and salt bonds are reformed, adding more products with the same purpose won’t have any additional benefits. Lamellar water can be a great way to introduce a pH lowering product into your routine.It is also a great product to introduce if you find your current post-shampoo products leave you with a lot of build-up or weigh your hair down.
While Lamellar water is still fairly uncommon, I wanted to go over some of the products you may be able to find near you.
L’Oreal Elvive 8 Second Wonder Water Rinse
This is a lamellar water rinse that also includes hydrolyzed proteins. Protein in hair product formulas is said to strengthen hair (it does not actually repair it though, as I explained in my post about bond builders) as well as reduce frizz and increase shine. This could be a great option if you don’t have pH lowering products in your current routine. Be aware of any brittleness that too much protein may cause. Another warning is that this product does seem to produce a bit of a heat reaction when combined with water which can be a little surprising if you aren't aware.
Not your mother’s Smooth Moves Instant Shine Lamellar Water Hair Rinse
I’m not super familiar with this brand, but I wanted to include it on the list as a vegan alternative with sustainable packaging. It is also the most affordable option on the list. It is similar to the Elvive Lamellar water from L’Oreal, including the addition of hydrolyzed proteins, while also including hyaluronic acid for an extra dose of moisture.
Redken Extreme Bleach Recovery Lamellar Treatment
This product is useful for any types but is also targeted to those who have been damaged by highlighting services and struggling with porosity issues. This is the only product on the list I've personally used and I really like it. It's very slippy, lathers pretty decently, and has a meter on the bottle to let you know how many doses you've used. It also did leave a nice strong shine in the hair almost as though I had used a gloss. I personally prefer this one as it doesn't have any amino acids or proteins so I can avoid over-keratinization (or protein overload) with clients, as I would recommend more intensive bond building for damaged hair.
If you need an immediate boost of shine or hydration in your hair care then possibly lamellar water is for you. Have you ever heard of lamellar water before reading this? Let me know if you've ever used any products with lamellar water as I'd love to hear your feedback on it.