The history of shampoo.

Cleansing your hair is one of the earliest practices of hair care known to man, but have you ever wondered how shampoo as we know it came to be? Dating as early as the 1500s, the evolution of shampoo spans hundreds of years and is a testament to human ingenuity and innovation. Many different cultures and regions have used various practices to cleanse the hair and scalp specifically. Bathing became more popular with the invention of indoor plumbing, and how we washed our hair changed dramatically.

I’m sure we all have a thorough understanding of what shampoo is, but for the sake of being thorough, I will give you a quick definition. Shampoo is typically a gel or liquid that is applied to wet hair, massaged into the scalp and hair, and then rinsed out with water. Shampoo contains a combination of ingredients, including surfactants, which help to remove dirt, oil, and product buildup from the hair and scalp. It may also contain conditioning agents, vitamins, and other beneficial ingredients that improve the health and appearance of the hair. Shampoo is available in a variety of formulations to address specific hair types and concerns, such as oily hair, dry hair, dandruff, or even color-treated hair.

Before the birth of shampoo as we know it today, ancient civilizations had their own unique ways of maintaining the health of their hair.

In ancient Egypt, a combination of animal fats (from crocodiles, hippopotamus, goats, etc) and plant extracts (such as almond or castor oil) to condition and style their hair.

According to Definitely Greece, ancient Greeks used olive oil as a hair moisturizer, vinegar and citrus to lighten hair, and beeswax to set curls.

Ancient Chinese hair care practices include rinsing with fermented rice water to promote hair growth and add shine.  Many of these ancient hair care practices are still used today and have been the inspiration of modern hair care treatments and products.

Indian Soapberries

The earliest recorded use of a hair cleansing product like the one we use today is in India, involving the practice of boiling Ayurvedic (the traditional Hindu practice of medicine) ingredients such as soapberries, gooseberries, hibiscus flowers, and other herbs to be used on the hair. The term for shampoo even comes from the hindi term ‘chāmpo’ meaning “to knead, press, or soothe”.

The Bengali traveler and surgeon Sake Dean Mohamed is credited with introducing the Indian practice to Europe, claiming many health and medicinal benefits. According to AramcoWorld, Mohamed published a medical work titled Shampooing; or Benefits resulting from the use of the Indian medicated vapour bath, that references his own aromatherapy bath house in which vapor treatment along with hair washing claimed to cure various illnesses and conditions including rheumatisms, gout, and stiff joints. This led to the more common practice of boiling soaps and other fragrances to wash hair in the early 1800s. Most commonly used were Castille soap (a widely used soap originally made of olive oil), Macassar Oil (made of coconut, palm and ylang-ylang oil), and Proctor and Gambles first product ‘Ivory Soap’.

The transition from soaps to synthetic powders and liquids for hair washing has been a significant development in the history of hair care. The introduction of synthetic detergents in the 20th century revolutionized the way we wash our hair. As hair washing rose in popularity we saw an increase in demand for easier methods to wash hair as well as solutions to problems introduced with more frequent hair washing.

Known back then as the “shampoo with the black head.

Many hair professionals will recognize the logo as Schwarzkopf is still one of the largest hair care brands, expanding to various other products including hair color.

In 1898, a chemist named Hans Schwarzkopf opened a drugstore dedicated to perfume and hair products. Soon after in 1904, he released a water-soluble, lavender scented, powder shampoo. As you just mix it with water for a rich lather increasing the convenience of use and improving effectiveness, the product quickly gained popularity. A similar powder shampoo, Canthrox, sold by H.S. Peterson and Company in 1909 (according to The National Museum of American History), was the first commercially marketed shampoo product and influenced the rise of the ‘bob’ hairstyle due to its quality of drying hair more quickly.

Marketing advertisements for Canthrox like this one led to the product’s commercial success.

In 1927, Schwarzkopf further revolutionized the hair care industry with the invention of the first liquid shampoo. Liquid shampoo could be applied directly to hair and lathered quickly which offered greater control over the amount used, making it a more efficient and cost-effective option.

Due to the alkaline nature of the surfactants in soap, these early formulations were often harsh and could leave the hair feeling dry and brittle. As a response, synthetic detergents were introduced as an alternative to soap. Synthetic formulas were easier to rinse out, avoid leaving a residue that would leave hair dull and weighed down, and were pH balanced to maintain moisture and oils with a more gentle cleanse. I talk about other benefits of pH balance in regards to hair in my blog post about bond builders.

Notably, Schwarzkopf released the first Alkaline-free shampoo, Onalkali, in 1933. Onalkali is considered to be the prototype of all modern shampoo. Another notable early synthetic shampoo is Drene, invented by Dr. John Breck in 1934 and sold by Proctor and Gamble, marketed as a premium hair care product and focused on being pH balanced. Drene was one of the first commercially successful synthetic alternatives to soap-based shampoo.

Italian Balm Advertisement from 1937 featuring the original Drene shampoo.

In the decades to follow we would see a boom in synthetic hair care products with the release of newer surfactants that cleanse more effectively, as well as the introduction of other ingredients such as polymers and silicones for formulas specifically designed to treat different issues (dandruff, color-treated, oily hair, curly hair, etc.). There is also a rise in the use of conditioners paired with shampoos, as an effort to restore shine, moisture, and manageability to the hair that shampoo tends to remove, although the history of conditioners is broad enough for another blog post entirely.

As shampoo products become more specialized to consumers (thick, thin, young, old, ethnic, etc), and as it becomes more affordable, we see a huge rise in the popularity of everyday washing. Especially in the 1970s, with personal grooming and self expression becoming more important, and the influence of popular culture (most notably Farah Faucett). Currently we are seeing more of a debate on the appropriate amount of cleansing when it comes to scalp and hair health, which I cover here.

1978 hair advertisement for Farrah Fawcett shampoo by Fabergé.

In the 1990s, the hair care industry began to see a growing demand for natural and organic products. Many consumers became more aware of the potential health risks associated with synthetic ingredients which are commonly used in traditional hair care products. Sulfates, for example, are a common cleansing ingredient but are thought to excessively dry out hair, leave residue, and irritate the scalp. Parabens, another common shampoo ingredient, have been studied to slightly mimic estrogen in the body and is a turn off to consumers as a result.

In recent years, the hair care industry has seen the introduction of several new types of shampoo products, including dry shampoos, clarifying shampoos, and co-washes. Dry shampoos have become increasingly popular as a convenient way to refresh hair between washes. These products come in a powder or spray form and work by absorbing excess oil from the scalp and hair, leaving it looking clean and refreshed. Clarifying shampoos are designed to provide a deep cleanse and remove product buildup from the hair and scalp. These shampoos are often recommended for those who use a lot of styling products or have hard water. Co-washes, short for conditioner washes, are a type of shampoo product that combine the cleansing power of shampoo with the conditioning benefits of a conditioner. These products are often marketed to those with curly or textured hair, as they can help to maintain moisture and prevent frizz. With the introduction of these new shampoo products, consumers now have more options than ever before to tailor their hair care routine to their specific needs and preferences.

The future of shampoo products is likely to be characterized by continued innovation and a focus on more sustainable and eco-friendly formulations. Consumers are increasingly interested in products that are both effective and environmentally friendly, and shampoo manufacturers are responding by developing products that meet these criteria. We are likely to see more shampoos that use plant-based or biodegradable ingredients, and that come in recyclable or reusable packaging. In addition, advances in technology may lead to the development of shampoos that are more personalized and customized to meet individual hair care needs. A current example I've seen of this is with brands like Prose, that allow you to take an assessment and will formulate hair products to your specific needs. This could eventually include the use of artificial intelligence or machine learning to analyze hair and scalp conditions and recommend specific products or ingredients.

High resolution image of scalp build-up under a microscope.

Without proper shampooing, dirt, oil, and product build-up can accumulate on the scalp, leading to a range of issues such as dandruff, itchiness, and an unpleasant odor. Regular use of shampoo helps to remove these impurities and keep the hair and scalp free from dirt, oil and product build-up. If you need help finding a good shampoo for you or how you can better incorporate it into your routine, check out my blog post on “How often *should* you wash your hair?”.

Did you ever consider the history of shampoo before reading this? What are some interesting hair facts you know? I would love to hear from you, and feel free to subscribe to my newsletter for more hair related blog posts like this.