How often *should* I wash my hair?
Recently one of my clients asked me a question most stylists get pretty often; “How often should I wash my hair?”
Throughout my career I have heard every “if, and, or but” when it comes to answering this question, but today I'm sharing my thoughts.
While at first this question may seem simple, it really is tricky because there isn't a one-size-fits-all rule. Hair washing frequency really comes down to the individual person, their lifestyle, the products they use, and how effectively they maintain scalp health.
There seems to be a current understanding that you should wash your hair as little as possible to regulate oil production of the scalp and that it’s presumably better for the health of hair. In the last few years the idea of “overwashing”, negative effects from cleansing the scalp too often such as dry skin, damaged hair, color fade, and texture change has become more prominent in hair discourse.This is true for more textured hair types as washing often can disrupt the curl pattern and result in over production of oils on the scalp due to lack of natural sebum on the scalp. However we are finding that this is not always the case with other hair types, in fact there are studies supporting that daily washing of certain hair types shows improvement of scalp health.
According to Surpiya Punyani, the Principal Scientist with Procter & Gamble, an epidemiological study conducted on Asian populations showed increased health benefits when subjects were washing as often as 5-6 times a week, almost daily, and no evidence of any issues in regards to overwashing. Another work study on a broader range of hair types showed lower wash frequency resulted in increased scalp issues such as dandruff and dermatitis.
I think what is more important than focusing on how often you’re washing your hair and sticking to a strict schedule is being intuitive about your current needs and lifestyle. Helen Reavey, a celebrity hairstylist and USTI certified trichologist (the study of issues and disease related to the hair and scalp), has a philosophy of treating the skin of your scalp as the skin of your face, focusing on washing the scalp effectively. She covers some of this in a video where she analyzes several heads and discusses the health of their scalp.
She has a specific process when it comes to washing the hair, start by making sure you are cleansing the nape of the neck and working up from there. This is the area of the scalp that is most often neglected as we tend to just plop the product on the top of our heads and work it in. Reavey also presents the idea of when it is time for you to cleanse, that you shampoo twice. This might make most people preemptively itch out of fear of a dry scalp and quickly greasy hair, but I completely agree with Reavey. Especially if you wash infrequently (I would not recommend this every time if you wash your hair often), you want to make the cleanse count. As Reavey explains, the first wash is to remove dirt, oils, and pollution, and the second wash is to actually cleanse the scalp. Another interesting tip she offers is to avoid conditioners with silicones which tend to be a magnet for build up.
If you would like to wash less in general, find both washing and styling products that will support the frequency you desire. Leave-in Conditioners and dry shampoos are great for extending the longevity of a wash. A tip that changed the way I set up clients for extended wear is using dry shampoo like a deodorant as opposed to using it once the oil is already visible. Applying it to a freshly washed scalp will absorb oil as it is produced, extending the life of your style with the added benefit of extra volume from the dry nature of the product. I also find a strategic approach to your wash schedule can also help in extending time between washing. I have several clients that I wash once a week, where they leave with a fresh, voluminous blowout. That way they can easily restyle and add products to get through the week, and avoid excessive build up and heat damage.
If you are currently experiencing any challenges with your hair, I suggest a process of elimination for diagnosing the root cause of the problem. Let’s say your hair is feeling dry, then try washing less often and using products focused on providing moisture to see if it helps. If you are feeling oily or greasy too quickly after washing, then you may need to further diagnose the symptom. If you tend to be on the dryer side, this could mean you may want to try washing less frequently. Reducing washing frequency could reduce overproduction of oil from a dry scalp. Otherwise, you may need a product made for detoxifying and removing build up for a more effective cleanse, or trying to double cleanse as Helen Reavey suggests. Assuming you missed a spot when washing (which is totally common), oil spots tend to spread faster and lead to a greasier scalp more quickly. This solution takes time as your scalp may react in a worse way before the pH balances out, sebum production regulates, and the issue gets better. It’s usually about a two week period before you will notice improvements.
Ultimately you should listen to your body and experiment with what works for you. If you can’t seem to find a solution or routine that works, you can schedule a consultation with your hairstylist in person to point you in the right direction, and recommend what products they think would benefit you personally.
Below I'm listing links to what products I use on my own clients and would recommend for every category I discussed in this blog. Let me know your hair care routine and about any products you swear by, I would love to check them out and hear what you think!
I want to thank my client for allowing me to share my insights on this! If you have a hair question, please feel free to submit one to me on my blog page!
Shampoo & Conditioner
You’ve probably already heard of this one because it's a staple in a lot of salons. Lightweight and very hydrating. Added benefit of UV and thermal protection to boot.
Silicone-free leave-in that deeply hydrates, reduces frizz, and provides thermal protection. Also claims to strengthen hair and repair dry ends, preventing breakage.
Milbon Restorative Blowout primer - Fine Hair
I recommend this one for clients with very fine hair that find any other leave-in too heavy for them. It doesn’t outwardly claim to hydrate but uses conditioning agents in the formula for better manageability, with the benefits of heat protection and repair.
Dry shampoo
Act + Acre Plant based Dry Shampoo
The only dry shampoo I like to recommend as it is lightweight, plant-based, and blends into the hair invisibly. This dry shampoo focuses on ingredients that will rebalance the microbiome of the scalp as well as absorb excess oil.
Scalp Treatment
The Inkey List Salicylic Acid Exfoliating Scalp Treatment
A very affordable gentle exfoliant for use on the scalp. Especially great for those with itchy, flakey scalps but I think everyone should incorporate a scalp exfoliant into their routine for effective build-up removal and skin maintenance. I prefer this over the Glycolic acid formula they have as it provides extra hydration.
Act+Acre Stem Cell Scalp Serum
Hydrating for the scalp and largely claims to extend the growth cycle of hair and aid in hair loss and health. Apple Stem cells used to reduce hair shedding and repair scalp microbiome.